A Year in Bread

Many of you know how much I love the book Bread Alone by Daniel Leader. I've mentioned it numerous times on my blog, Farmgirl Fare, and I've been recommending it for years to anyone who showed even the slightest interest in wanting to bake their own bread. I have a shelf full of bread books, but this is the only one that has earned a permanent place in my kitchen. My original copy is in at least four pieces.

Back in January, I received an email from a marketing coordinator at W.W.Norton, an independent and employee-owned book publisher in New York, congratulating me for winning the Best Rural Food Blog at last year's Food Blog Awards. He then went on to say:

When I read that you're working towards creating an artisan bread bakery on your farm, I thought I'd let you know about a book we're publishing this summer. It's called Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers. It's written by Daniel Leader, the founder of Bread Alone, the legendary bakery in Woodstock, NY. The book won't be available in stores for a few more months, but I'd love to send you an advance copy. Interested?

Of all the bread bakers and all the bread books. . .

We're going to devote next month at A Year in Bread to Local Breads, which will be available in stores August 13th. You can pre-order copies now at Amazon.com for $23.10, which is 34% off the cover price of $35.00. Click here for more info. We'll each be baking a different Italian bread from the book, and during the fourth week we'll have an exclusive interview with Daniel Leader. We'll also be holding a contest and giving away two signed copies of Local Breads to lucky (and skilled!) A Year in Bread readers. Stay tuned for more details.

Variation: Four-Hour Dinner Rolls (petit pain)
From Local Breads by Daniel Leader

[I haven't tried these yet but plan to.] Making rolls from Parisian Daily Bread dough couldn't be simpler, since the dough just has to be cut into equal pieces but not shaped. To make rolls instead of baguettes, follow the recipe for Parisian Daily Bread through dividing and preshaping the dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. With your palms, gently press it into a square about 12 inches wide and 3/4 inches thick (30 x 2 cm). Use a bench scraper or a chef's knife dipped in flour to cut the dough into 16 equal pieces (1.9 ounces/53 grams each). [A digital kitchen scale works great for portioning out dough.] Place the rolls on a parchment-covered peel or rimless baking sheet, about 2 inches apart. Lightly dust them with flour and lightly drape them with plastic wrap until they have spread by about 20 percent, 30 to 40 minutes. Bake until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes, and serve immediately. Cool leftover rolls and freeze in resealable plastic bags for up to 1 month.

In the meantime, though, I needed a summer/picnic bread for this month. I'd been e-mailing back and forth with Daniel about Local Breads, so I figured I'd ask him for a recommendation from it. He immediately suggested I try the very first recipe in the book, Parisian Daily Bread, or what he called The Four Hour Baguette.

"It's simple, it's fool proof, and it's delicious," he said. And he was right.

I'll warn you now that this a lengthy recipe, but don't let that scare you away. It really is an easy bread to make, and the detailed instructions will allow even beginning bakers to produce beautiful, scrumptious loaves. The success of such a simple recipe lies in all the little details. This is the original recipe in its entirety, with my baking notes [in brackets.]

From first step to first bite really is under four hours. The recipe makes three 10-ounce baguettes that are the perfect size for slicing into rounds for appetizer-size crostini or bruschetta. Or you can cut one in half lengthwise and make a beautiful sandwich for two. This bread has a pleasantly chewy crust that becomes nice and crisp if reheated. It freezes beautifully and is the perfect kind of bread to have on hand since it's so versatile.

Parisian Daily Bread (Baguette Normal)
From Daniel Leader's Local Breads

Allow 20 minutes to mix and rest;
8 to 12 minutes to knead;
1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours to ferment;
30 to 40 minutes to proof;
15 to 20 minutes to bake

A version of this straight dough baguette is produced by bakers all over Paris. The first batch goes out when the bakery opens in the morning at around seven o'clock, and a fresh batch is set out every 4 hours after that until closing time, at 8 p.m.

Makes 3 slender loaves about 14 inches/36 cm long [I made mine a little shorter to be sure they would fit on my baking stone] and 10 ounces/285 grams each

Equipment
cast-iron skillet
bench scraper or chef's knife
baker's peel or rimless baking sheet
parchment paper
2 kitchen towels
lame, single-edged razor blade, or serrated knife

Ingredients | US volume | metric volume | US weight | metric weight
water - tepid (70 - 78F/21 - 26C) 1 1/2 c | 355 ml | 12 oz | 340 g
instant yeast 1 tsp | 5 ml | .2 oz | 5 g
flour* 3 1/4 c | 770 ml | 17.6 oz | 500 g
sea salt 1 1/2 tsp | 7 ml | .4 oz | 10 g

*Type 55-style flour from King Arthur or Giusto's or unbleached all-purpose flour [I used Heartland Mill organic, unbleached, all-purpose flour that I order in 50-pound bags from my local natural foods store]

Mix the dough
Pour the water into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. [I used the US volume measurements.] Add the yeast, flour, and salt and stir with a rubber spatula just until all the water is absorbed and a dry, clumpy dough forms. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap [I used a damp tea towel] and let it stand for 20 minutes, to allow the flour to hydrate and the gluten to develop on its own.

Shaping A Baguette
From Local Breads by Daniel Leader

Breads across Europe are shaped into logs of varying lengths. The technique for creating the basic shape is the same, no matter the length or thickness of the bread. The classic French baguette is a particularly long log, distinguished by its elegant scoring and tapered ends. Classic French baguettes are 28 inches (70 cm), but the baguette recipes in Local Breads have been adapted so that the breads measure 14 inches (35 cm), to fit home ovens and baking stones.

1. On a lightly floured countertop, pat the dough into a rough rectangle measuring about 3 by 5 inches (8 x 12 cm).

2. With the longer side facing you, fold the top of the dough down about one third of the way toward the center. With the heel of your hand, press along the seam, using firm but gentle pressure. Fold the bottom of the dough about one third of the way toward the center and seal the seam firmly.

3. Fold this skinny rectangle in half by bringing the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Working from right to left, cup your hand over the log of dough and press the heel of your hand down firmly to seal the seam. Dust the counter with additional flour to prevent the dough from sticking.

4. To stretch the log, place your hands together, palms down, over the middle of the log. Using light, even pressure, roll the log back and forth as you spread your hands apart. Repeat three or four times, until the log is the desired length. Leave the ends rounded or taper them by applying gentle pressure to them as you roll. Avoid over-handling the loaves, which will burst their air cells.

Knead the dough
By hand: Lightly dust the counter with flour. Using the spatula, empty the dough and any stray flour out of the bowl and knead it with smooth, steady strokes for 10 to 12 minutes. After about 2 minutes, the dough will collect into a ball. It will feel tacky and you'll start to see it stretch. Continue to knead, dipping your hands in flour as necessary so they don't stick to the dough. Try to avoid kneading extra flour into the dough so your baguettes will be light. Relax into the rhythm of kneading. Take a 2-minute break if you become tired. Stop when the dough loses its stickiness, firms up, and feels silky smooth and resilient. [After 11 minutes of kneading, my dough was firm and smooth but still somewhat sticky, despite having put almost 3/4 cup extra flour on my hands while kneading to keep them from sticking to the dough. It was cloudy and very humid. I also know that my flour has absorbed moisture from the humidity.]

By machine:[I haven't tried this.] Use the dough hook of a stand mixer and mix the dough on low speed (2 on a KitchenAid) for 8 to 10 minutes. It will clear the sides of the bowl, grabbing onto the dough hook, but look lumpy. Pull it off the dough hook and knead it by hand for a few strokes on an unfloured counter until it is very smooth and springy.

Ferment the dough
Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled, clear, straight-sided 2-quart container with a lid. [I used an inexpensive plastic freezer container that I sprayed with Trader Joe's Baking Spray, which is made with canola oil and flour. I also use it to grease my loaf pans.] With masking tape, mark the spot on the container that the dough will reach when it has increased 1-1/2 times in volume. [I used a Sharpie permanent black marker, which washes off with dishsoap and a scrubbie sponge.]

Cover and leave it to rise at room temperature (70 to 75 degrees) for 45 minutes. [The second time I made these baguettes, my kitchen was about 82 degrees, so I put the dough in a cooler with an ice pack where it was 72 degrees. The shaped loaves wouldn't fit in the cooler, though, so I just let them proof in the warmer kitchen.] It won't double in volume but will increase by about 25 percent. [Both times I made this, my dough was at the 1-1/2 times mark in 45 minutes.] If you slice into it, you will begin to get an idea of what your finished bread will look like, with a structure under the surface of bubbles, nooks, and crannies. [I forgot to do this.]

Give the dough a turn
Lightly dust the counter with flour and, using a spatula, empty the risen dough out of the container. Pat it gently into a rectangle about 6 by 8 inches and fold it like a business letter; with the short side facing you, lift the top edge and fold it into the center of the rectangle; lift the near edge and fold it into the center so that it overlaps the top edge by about 1 inch. Quickly slide both hands under the dough and flip it over so the folds are underneath. Slip it back into the container, pushing it down to fit. Cover the dough and let stand until it expands reaching halfway to the masking tape mark, 45 minutes to 1 hour. [Both times I made this, after 45 minutes my dough had doubled in volume from the original amount.]

Prepare the oven
About 1 hour before baking, place a baking stone on the middle rack of the oven and a cast-iron skillet on the lower rack. Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Divide and pre-shape the dough
Lightly dust the counter with flour. Uncover the dough and turn it out onto the counter. With a bench scraper or chef's knife, cut the dough into 3 equal pieces (10 ounces/285 grams) each. Gently pat each piece into a rough rectangle and fold it in half. Sprinkle the pieces of dough with flour and lightly drape them with plastic wrap. [I used a damp tea towel.] Let them relax on the counter for 10 minutes.

Shape the baguettes
Cover a baker's peel or rimless baking sheet with parchment paper. [I like to use unbleached parchment.] Shape each piece of dough into a baguette about 14 inches long and 2-1/2 inches wide (see sidebar for shaping instructions). [I made my baguettes about 13 inches long and patted them gently with my hands after forming to make them 2-1/2 inches wide.] Leave the ends rounded. Avoid over-handling the loaves, which will burst their air cells.

Form the couche [This is such a brilliant idea!]
Lightly dust the parchment on the peel or rimless baking sheet with flour and place the baguettes on the parchment, seam sides down, about 2 inches apart. Lift the parchment paper between the loaves, making pleats and drawing the loaves together. Tightly roll up 2 kitchen towels and slip them under the parchment paper on the sides of the two outer loaves to support and cradle the baguettes. Lightly dust the tops of the baguettes with flour and lightly drape them with plastic wrap. [I used a damp tea towel.]

Proof the baguettes
Let the loaves stand at room temperature (70 to 75 degrees) for 30 to 40 minutes. They will increase about 1-1/2 times in size. When you press your fingertip into the dough, the indentation will spring back slowly.

Score the baguettes
Uncover the loaves, take away the towels, and stretch the parchment paper out so that it is flat and the loaves are separated on top of it. Score each baguette with a lame, a single-edged razor blade, or a very sharp serrated knife. [I always use a large serrated knife.] Starting from the tip, angle the blade 45 degrees to make 3 slashes, about 3 inches long and 1/2 inch deep. Slash quickly and confidently.

Bake the loaves
Slide the loaves, still on the parchment, onto the hot baking stone. Carefully place 1/2 cup of ice [I used about a cup] in the hot cast-iron skillet to produce steam. Bake until the baguettes are caramel-colored, 15 to 20 minutes. [I baked mine 25 minutes.]

Cool and store the loaves
Slide the peel or the rimless baking sheet under the parchment paper to remove the loaves from the oven. Slide the loaves, still on the parchment, onto a wire rack. Cool for about 5 minutes and then peel them off the parchment paper. Parisian Daily Bread is best eaten within a few hours of baking. Toast day-old baguettes and spread with butter and jam for breakfast. For longer storage, freeze in resealable plastic bags for up to 1 month.

Recipe reprinted from Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers by Daniel Leader (c) Copyright 2007 by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. With permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.