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Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Susan:
Honey Bran Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread Recipe


A Whole Grain Loaf Even Diehard White Bread Fans Will Love

I'll admit that things have improved somewhat over the past several years, but for the most part bread still doesn't get the respect in the United States that it deserves—especially the poor sandwich loaf. Is there anything more depressing than a sandwich that is packed full of amazing stuff yet held in place by two totally disappointing slices of something that barely deserves to be called bread?

In a perfect world, both the filling and the bread would be wonderful, but I, for one, would much rather have a so-so filling surrounded by superior bread than the other way around. Bad bread can ruin even the best sandwich, and good bread can make it.

We're a very bread oriented household here on the farm, and we take our sandwiches seriously. I took it as a compliment when a houseguest once said, after polishing off one of the homegrown lamb salami sandwiches I'd packed for us to eat while out running errands (I never leave the farm without food), "I'm so full. Your sandwiches are like a meal!" but at the same time part of me was thinking, Well, yeah. It was lunch.

Boring Old Tuna? Not on this Bread

A sandwich shouldn't be something you're forced to eat—it should be something you want to eat. And it doesn't have to be expensive or fancy to be fabulous. Start with nice ingredients and you'll end up with a very nice sandwich. Plain old peanut butter and jam? A perennial favorite around here. But the bread is freshly baked, the peanut butter and jam (reduced sugar—you can taste the fruit!) are organic, and the mandatory ice cold glass of milk served alongside came straight out of a happy Jersey cow who lives six miles down the road. In fact that's what I had for breakfast this morning. Open faced on one slice of lightly toasted Honey Bran Whole Wheat.

Lunch? Leftover roast chicken (locally raised on pasture and organic grains) topped with soft and sweet slices of roasted onions (both heated ever so slightly), a sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper, a thick smear of mayonnaise (I've always been a Best Foods/Hellman's girl), and plenty of lettuce. More of the Honey Bran Bread. Maybe toasted, maybe not. Make the bread, make the sandwich. Make a meal.

Crusty, freeform artisan breads are popping up all over, but the sandwich bread section at most supermarkets still remains a disappointing (and sometimes frightening) place. How can ingredients with 22 letters belong in a loaf of bread? And why is Oroweat not spelled Orowheat? Is it like creme and cheez, which don't contain cream or cheese?

The sandwich solution? Set aside a couple of hours every week or two and bake your own loaves. It's easier than you think, tastier than you can imagine, and costs less than the storebought equivalent—that is if you could actually find a storebought equivalent. You'll have friends and family singing your praises, and your sandwiches will never be the same. All because of a simple loaf of bread.



Susan's Honey Bran Whole Wheat Bread
Makes 3 large loaves, about 36 ounces each

When it comes to baking bread, my motto is If you have friends or a freezer, never bake just one loaf at a time. It only takes a few more minutes of work to bake two or three loaves, and homemade bread freezes beautifully.

This is a variation of my popular
Farmhouse White, which is the kind of simple, scrumptious loaf people tend to imagine apron-clad grandmothers baking. Farmhouse White is also almost foolproof, which makes it a great beginner's loaf. I realize that in these health conscious days white bread isn't for everyone, but if you've had disappointing, doorstop-like whole grain baking experiences in the past, you might want to bake up a batch or two of the basic recipe first and then start making it healthier.

Farmhouse White is open to an infinite number of interpretations, and this is my latest favorite variation. It also makes wonderful dinner rolls and burger buns. It's not 100% whole grain and uses white whole wheat flour, which means it's a lighter, easier dough to work with and also rises beautifully, while still offering plenty of whole grain goodness, especially with the 2 cups of bran tossed in.

You don't have to weigh your ingredients when baking bread, but a digital kitchen scale really does make baking and cooking a whole lot easier. It's also nice to be able to weigh your dough as you're dividing it into loaves (or rolls) so you know they're the same size. I am loving my new
Oxo Good Grips Kitchen Scale: it weighs up to 11 pounds, lets you pull the display out from the base so you can weigh really large bowls (so cool), and was recently voted #1 by America's Test Kitchen, the people who publish Cook's Illustrated magazine. Can you say incredibly useful, under $50 holiday gift?

Bake your bread in 8" x 4" pans if you want the rustic look of taller loaves with mushroom-shaped tops (like in the photo above), or 9" x 5" pans if you prefer shorter, more square-shaped slices (like the tuna sandwich photo). I can't say enough good things about
these Chicago Metallic commercial loaf pans. For the price of a few loaves of bread they're definitely worth the investment—and come with a 25-year warranty. What they call a 1-pound pan is basically an 8-inch, and the 1-1/2 pound pan is equivalent to a 9-inch.

As always, I urge you to seek out
local and organic ingredients whenever possible. I've found that organic flour makes a big difference when baking bread, and it often only costs a few more cents per loaf. Look for organic flours and brans in the bulk section of natural food stores.

If you don't have bread flour for this recipe, just use more all-purpose flour. Increase the honey to 1/2 cup for a slightly sweeter loaf. I like to bake all my breads, including those in loaf pans, on a baking stone, as I find it bakes them more evenly and gives the bottoms a nicer crust (and it also simulates the ceramic deck in the 7-foot wide bread oven in my
someday-bread-bakery-to-be), but it definitely isn't necessary.

4 cups / 1 lb-4 oz / 568 g all-purpose flour
2 cups / 10¼ oz / 290 g bread flour
1 cup / 4¼ oz 122 g oat bran
1 cup / 3¾ oz / 109 g wheat bran
1½ Tablespoons / 1/8 oz / 17 g instant yeast
2 Tablespoons / 30 ml canola oil or melted butter
1/3 cup / 3-5/8 oz / 102 g honey
5 cups / 40 fluid oz lukewarm milk (about 85 degrees F)
4 cups / 1lb-5 oz / 604 g white whole wheat flour
2 Tablespoons / 30 ml salt

Mixing and fermentation
In a very large bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour, bread flour, oat bran, wheat bran, and yeast (I use a wooden spoon). Make a small well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour in the canola oil, the honey, and then the milk. Mix well, then continue to stir vigorously, slowly adding 1 cup of the white whole wheat flour at a time, until you've added 4 cups, or until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough. This should take a few minutes.

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead for about 6 or 7 minutes, adding more flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to your hands or the work surface.

Place the mixing bowl over the dough, and let it rest for 20 minutes. This rest period is called the autolyse. (You can read more about autolyse in the sidebar on my
Farmhouse White recipe post.)

Remove the bowl, flatten out the dough with your hands, and sprinkle about half of the salt over it. Begin kneading the salt into the dough. After a few turns, sprinkle on the rest of the salt and continue to knead for 5 to 7 minutes, until the salt is completely incorporated and the dough is soft and smooth.

Place the dough in a large plastic straight sided container with a snap-on lid. With masking tape or a felt tip pen, mark the spot on the container that the dough will reach when it has doubled in volume. Set it somewhere that is preferably between 70F and 78F for about one hour. Ideally, the dough should also be between 70F and 78F. It's easy to check the temperature of your dough and ingredients with an inexpensive
instant read thermometer.

When the dough is ready to be shaped, you should be able to push a floured finger deep into it and leave an indentation that doesn't spring back. Unless your dough is rising in a straight-sided container, it can be difficult to judge whether it has "doubled in size," which is the guideline most recipes use. I find the finger poking method to be more reliable.

Shaping and final rise (proof)
Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, flattening gently with your hands to break up any large air bubbles. Divide the dough into three equal pieces.

Shape the dough into loaves and dust the tops with flour. There are dozens of ways to do this; instructions on how I like to shape my sandwich loaves can be found
in this post. Place loaves seam side down in greased loaf pans (I've become addicted to baking spray—so convenient.)

If desired, an hour before baking, place baking stone in the oven and heat to 375 degrees.

Cover the loaves with a damp tea towel and let them rise for 45 to 60 minutes. The dough should rise well above the rim of the pans, and when you lightly poke it with a floured finger it should spring back just a little.

Bake at 375 degrees for 40 minutes or until the loaves are golden brown and the bottoms sound hollow if tapped (you can carefully pop one out of the pan and put it back in if it's not quite done). Remove immediately from pans and let cool on a wire rack. Try to wait at least 40 minutes before cutting into a loaf, as it continues to bake while cooling. Store at room temperature or freeze in zipper freezer bags. Make sure loaves are completely cooled before sealing in bags.

Still have more flour left?
Check out all the other
sandwich bread recipes on A Year In Bread.

© Copyright 2008 AYearInBread.com, the bread baking blog where on more than one occasion we've happily eaten sandwiches (on homemade bread of course) for three meals in one day.

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Friday, September 05, 2008

Susan: Easy Rosemary Focaccia (Flatbread) Recipe


Homemade Focaccia Can Be Quite Impressive Looking

Focaccia is a tasty, easy to make, incredibly versatile Italian flatbread that I discovered very late in life—like about 8 months ago. I tried my friend Stephen's quick rosemary focaccia while researching bread recipes for an article I was working on and instantly fell in love. Basically a cross between thick pizza crust and bread, focaccia makes great burgers or sandwiches but is quite tasty eaten on its own or alongside a meal. The olive oil in the dough adds a pleasant flavor and gives the bread a nice texture.

There are a zillion toppings and flavors of focaccia, from the basic olive oil and sprinkling of salt variety to complicated tomato, onion, potato, herb, vegetable, and cheese topped versions that turn it into more of a thick crust pizza. Feel free to experiment with whatever ingredients you have on hand and whatever strikes your fancy. Making focaccia should be fun!


No Matter How You Slice It, Homemade Focaccia Is Always Delicious

I've been meaning to move beyond rosemary but have been perfecting this recipe instead, though I'm looking forward to topping some with fresh tomatoes now that my kitchen garden is finally full of them. The sprinkling of cheese on the top adds a nice flavor and looks pretty, too. I love the addition of a little white wine in the dough, but you can substitute more water instead.

Stephen's recipe calls for mixing the dough in a food processor, but I found it easier (and safer) to simply knead it by hand.

If you don't have a baking/pizza stone, just bake your focaccia on a heavy duty baking sheet. My apologies for not listing the ingredients by weight as well as volume like we usually do.

Are you a fellow focaccia fan? What's your favorite way to make it or enjoy it? If you've written about focaccia on your own blog, you're welcome to leave a link to your post in the comments section below.


Focaccia Makes Great 'Buns'—Lamb Burger Recipe is on Farmgirl Fare

Susan's Simple Rosemary Focaccia
Makes 2 large

4 to 6 cups organic bread flour (all-purpose will work, too)
1 teaspoon instant yeast
1-1/2 cups water
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling on top
1/3 cup dry white wine (or water)
4 Tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary, divided
2 teaspoons salt
Few handfuls freshly grated Pecorino Romano or other hard cheese

Combine 4 cups bread flour and yeast in a large bowl. Stir in water and mix until a soft, sticky dough forms, adding a little more flour if necessary.

Cover with a damp tea towel and let rest 20 minutes.

Mix in olive oil, white wine, 2 Tablespoons rosemary, and salt. Stir in enough flour to make a soft dough. Turn dough out onto a generously floured surface and begin to knead, sprinkling with more flour as needed to keep dough from sticking to your work surface and hands. Knead for 7 to 8 minutes.

Place the dough in a straight sided plastic container with a snap on lid and let rise until doubled, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours. The ideal room/dough temperature for rising dough is about 75 degrees.

After 30 minutes, place a baking stone in the oven and heat to 450 degrees.

Scrape the dough out of the container onto a lightly floured work surface and divide it into two balls. Place the dough balls on pieces of unbleached parchment paper and flatten each one into a disk or oval about 1/2" thick. Note: I can fit two ovals (but not two rounds) on my rectangular baking stone at one time. If you can only bake one focaccia at a time, set the other one in a cool place or the refrigerator while the first one bakes; or you can always cut the recipe in half.

Generously drizzle the dough with olive oil and use your fingers to spread it evenly, then dimple the dough all over with the pads of your fingers and scatter the remaining 2 Tablespoons of rosemary and the Pecorino Romano over it.

Cover focaccia with a damp tea towel or plastic wrap and let rise for about 30 minutes, or until the dough springs back slowly when you press a finger into it.

Slide the focaccia onto the hot baking stone and bake 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 375 degrees and bake for another 15 minutes, or until the crust is golden. Cool on a wire rack 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Focaccia is best when eaten the same day it's baked, but it freezes beautifully.

Related posts:
Kevin's Grape & Rosemary Focaccia from Local Breads
Susan's Rosemary Feta Lamb Burgers on Rosemary Focaccia

© Copyright 2008 AYearInBread.com, the bread baking blog where we're celebrating the arrival of September (and the fact that it's no longer 88 degrees in the kitchen!) by diving into the flour bins and cranking up the oven.

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Thursday, January 17, 2008

Susan: Cozy Breads For Cold Winter Days Recipe Roundup On FoodieView & Focaccia, My New Favorite Flatbread


My First Foray Into Focaccia

Up until the other day, I'd never made focaccia. When I decided to test my friend Stephen's
Quick Rosemary Focaccia recipe for an article I was working on, I realized that not only had I never made focaccia, but I'd never even eaten it. I know, I know, where have I been? I have no idea. Probably too busy eating pizza. You know I love homemade pizza. What I know is that after devouring large hunks of this rosemary focaccia for three meals in a row (yes, I ate it for breakfast, and no, I didn't have it with my meals, it was my meals), I am ready to embark on a focaccia making rampage.

Stephen warned me that focaccia purists may scoff at his crowd-pleasing, quick and easy version which is mixed in the food processor* and shaves hours off the traditional resting times, but I couldn't stop eating it. Warm from the oven, at room temperature the next day, or reheated in my
beloved little toaster/convection oven - this stuff is good.** It also freezes beautifully. And the smell of the rosemary-infused dough that permeated every nook and cranny of The Shack while it was rising was wonderful. I'm pretty sure I followed Stephen's recipe exactly, except I scattered a few handfuls of pecorino romano over the focaccias along with the rest of the rosemary just before baking. I also skipped the egg wash. Next time I'll try using only half the amount of yeast.

Apparently there are all sorts of ways to enjoy focaccia - not to mention all sorts of toppings you can put on it before baking. But so far I have yet to get past splitting a warm hunk in half and tucking in a couple of slices of Irish Shannon, my new favorite cheese.

As soon as I find some nice organic grapes I plan to try the focaccia recipe in Local Breads, my new favorite bread book by my favorite bread baker, Daniel Leader. Kevin made it last year when we each chose a different straight dough Italian bread from Local Breads and said it was the best focaccia he's ever tasted. I already have my eye on a couple of other interesting focaccia recipes in some of my other cookbooks as well, and one of these days I'll have to take the time to make a truly traditional version, such as this one by Dan Lepard, as demonstrated by Fanny on Foodbeam.

Stephen's
quick rosemary focaccia is just one of the recipes included in my Cozy Breads For Cold Winter Days article for the Recipe Roundup, a new weekly feature written by various food bloggers on FoodieView. I tried to offer something for everyone, from tasty quick breads that are ready in under an hour to impressive yeast breads that are perfect for beginners. Many of you will recognize some of my own favorite bread recipes. You'll find all of the FoodieView Recipe Roundups here, and you can subscribe to them via e-mail here.

FoodieView is a neat site run by some really nice foodies that makes "good food easy to find, whether you're dining in or dining out." Check out the restaurant guides for nine major cities (more will be added) or search through over 1 million recipes from places like Cooking Light, Eating Well, Gourmet/Bon Appetit, Fine Cooking, Food Network, Sunset, and Saveur. The neatest part about the FoodieView search engine is that you can narrow down your search criteria by ingredient, dish, cuisine, special considerations (gluten free, low carb, vegetarian, etc.), sources, and more, including famous chefs.

As for me, I'm off to check out
Michael Chiarello's Country Focaccia With Blue Cheese & Lavender Honey recipe, see if I can locate a source for organic semolina flour so I can try making Jamie Oliver's favorite focaccia, and work my way through some of the other 4,793 hits my FoodieView search for 'focaccia recipe' came up with.

Are you a focaccia fan? I'd love to hear about your favorite recipes and ways you like to eat it. I'm already drooling over the thought of focaccia sandwiches piled high with slices of juicy heirloom tomatoes from
next summer's garden. (It's gonna be a long six months waiting for them.) Beth tormented me the other night with a description of the dinner she'd just made: lamb burgers with blue cheese and shallots on homemade focaccia. Yum.


Stephen's Quick Rosemary Focaccia Ready For The Oven

Move over
pizza. There's a new flatbread on the farm.

* A word of warning: This is a soft and sticky dough, especially if you haven't added quite enough flour to it. Do NOT reach into the food processor bowl and try to grab the finished blob of dough with your bare hands while the blade is still buried in it. Yeah, ouch. Not that I think you would ever do anything that stupid.

** A technical note about Stephen's recipe: It makes two 8" - 10" round focaccias. I didn't realize until they were ready to go into the oven that there was no way they were both going to fit on my baking stone at once. Fortunately it's winter, so I just popped one into the oven and set the other out on one of the chest freezers on the covered porch next to the kitchen, protected by a large upside down bowl since
Smudge the cat (who lives on the porch) was very interested in it. If it had been summer things would have been a little tricker, as I don't usually have enough space for an entire unbaked focaccia in my fridge. If both won't fit in your oven at once and you don't have a cool spot to put the second one while the first one bakes, you might want to halve the recipe.


© Copyright 2008
FarmgirlFare.com, the award-winning blog where you're allowed to eat rosemary focaccia and chocolate cake for breakfast.

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Friday, December 28, 2007

Susan: Holiday Breads - Italian Rosemary Raisin Bread



For more years than I like to admit, we've been slowly but surely working on a large metal building here on the farm that will one day house our wholesale artisan bread bakery and us. Since progress lately has been more along the lines of slowly rather than surely, we finally broke down and admitted to ourselves that this project was never going to be completed unless we hired some outside help. Besides, The Shack is literally falling down around us.

So for the past five weeks, our new contractor and his helper have been hard at work by 7:30 nearly every weekday morning. Great headway is being made, and we're both extremely excited. It looks like 2008 really will be The Year We Move Out Of The Shack. It's like a checkbook-draining dream come true.

Meanwhile I've been learning all kinds of stuff about amps and breaker boxes and electrical outlets, but I'd much rather be baking than taking Wiring 101, especially as I watch our bread bakery finally becoming a reality. It's a proven fact that workers are 50% more productive when they've been well fed (no, really), and our two builders informed me early on that they love baked goods of any sort. When I'm not stuffing them with molasses ginger spice snaps, Mexican monkey cake, or my decidedly different chocolate chip cookies (which they both declared were the best cookies they'd ever eaten), I've been experimenting with new bread recipes, including this one.

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Italian Rosemary Raisin Bread (Pane di Ramerino)
Makes 2 small loaves - Adapted slightly from Bread

This is the second recipe I've made from a wonderful, bargain priced book called Bread: Artisan Breads from Baguettes and Bagels to Focaccia and Brioche by authors and cooking instructors Eric Treuille and Ursula Ferrigno (he's French, she's Italian). Pane di Ramerino has been baked daily throughout Tuscany since the early 16th century. As you can see, this is a beautiful bread, and it would not only be perfect to serve to guests, but would also make a lovely gift. Thankfully the recipe makes two small loaves so you can spread the yeasty joy and still have some left for yourself.

I never would have thought to combine raisins and rosemary in bread, but the result is delicious. The flavor of the rosemary is subtle; simply double the amount if you want to taste it more. This is a rich, easy-to-work-with dough made with milk, olive oil (which adds another layer of flavor) and eggs. The texture of the crumb is reminiscent of a cinnamon roll. This bread freezes beautifully and can even be sliced while still frozen.

The authors claim it is a superlative breakfast bread and "quite simply the best accompaniment to fresh goat cheese." My friend Amanda, who writes about Mediterranean food at the glorious Figs Olives Wine, suggested using it to make her cool weather bruschetta with ricotta salata and thyme. I'm thinking it would make extraordinary French toast — perhaps for brunch on New Year's Day.

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bread flour 3-3/4 cups 1 lb 2-3/4 oz 533 g (plus a little more while kneading)
instant yeast 2 teaspoons
warm milk 1/2 cup 4 ounces
chopped fresh rosemary 1 Tablespoon
raisins 1-1/2 packed cups 4-1/2 oz 127 g
olive oil 4 Tablespoons
4 eggs, beaten
salt 1-1/2 teaspoons

1. Mix the flour and yeast in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the milk, rosemary, raisins, olive oil, and eggs. Mix to form a soft, sticky dough, adding extra flour, 1 Tablespoon at a time, if the dough is too moist.

2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead 6 minutes. Cover the dough and let it rest for 20 minutes.

3. Knead in the salt, and continue kneading until the dough is silky, springy, and elastic, about 5 to 8 minutes.

4. Put the dough in a plastic lidded container (or in a large bowl covered with a damp tea towel) and let it rise until double in size, about 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

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5. Divide the dough into two pieces. Shape each into a round loaf and place on a well floured couche or work counter. If you won't be using a baking stone, place the rounds on a parchment-lined heavy baking sheet. Dust tops of loaves with flour and cover with a damp tea towel. Heat oven and baking stone to 400 degrees. Proof loaves until doubled in size, about 1 hour. (Note: the book says that the loaves will spread and look slightly flat after rising, but will rise up dramatically during the initial stages of baking. Mine didn't flatten out, but my dough was on the dense side.)

6. Cut a slash, 1/2 inch deep, across the top of the loaf, then another in the opposite direction to make an "X."

7. Bake in the preheated oven (directly on the baking stone if you have one) until golden brown and hollow sounding when tapped underneath, about 30 minutes with a baking stone and 45 minutes without. Cool on a wire rack.

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Wednesday, November 07, 2007

Susan: Holiday Rolls - Carrot Herb Rolls Recipe



When we were first creating A Year in Bread last January, I came up with a list of personal goals that I hoped to accomplish while being a part of this project. These included delving into the numerous unused bread books on my shelves, baking new breads I probably wouldn't have ventured to try on my own, and making much better use of all the beautiful herbs in my kitchen garden.

This month we decided to each bake some sort of rolls that would be appropriate for the holiday table, and I hit the personal goal jackpot with my recipe. It's a variation of the carrot bread in Bread:Artisan Breads from Baguettes and Bagels to Focaccia and Brioche by authors and cooking instructors Eric Treuille and Ursula Ferrigno (he's French, she's Italian). I've been reviewing this book, and my opinion of it can be summed up in one word: wonderful. Wait, make that two words: wonderful and inspiring. This is the second bread I've made from it, and the first one was as pretty as it was delicious.

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Here's a little blurb from the book jacket, and it's all true:
Bread mixes delicious recipes with essential techniques to provide the home cook with practical reference and inspiration. From mixing and shaping to proofing and glazing--each stage of the bread-making process is clearly explained, with problem-solving tips and a complete illustrated guide to key ingredients and equipment to help you succeed. Bread's step-by-step demonstrations of the principles and practices of bread-making will give you the confidence and skills to try its tantalizing range of over 100 breads.
If you learn best by looking at pictures, then this is definitely the book for you because it's packed with gorgeous, full-color photos. While it's a perfect book for beginners (I already know at least one budding bread baker who will be receiving a copy for Christmas), I think most experienced bakers would enjoy it. I've already discovered all sorts of handy tips and useful nuggets of information, and there are several more breads I'd like to make, such as the Hungarian Potato Bread, Dark Chocolate Bread (1 1/4 cups of cocoa powder!), Swedish Dill Bread (made with cream cheese), and the Prune and Chocolate Bread ("a deeply indulgent loaf, chock-a-block with juicy prunes and melted chocolate"). There's also an intriguing recipe for a straight dough (as opposed to sourdough) Pane con Pomodori e Cipolle Rosse (Tomato and Red Onion Bread) which looks similar to the Fresh Tomato & Basil Whole-wheat Sourdough Bread I wrote about recently on Farmgirl Fare.

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One of the nice things about it is that many of the recipes start with the same basic recipe and build on it, which means trying all sorts of different breads suddenly becomes much less daunting. Variations on the same recipe are also often given. For example, the pita bread recipe includes a whole-wheat version as well as instructions on how to make Lavash (Armenian Flat Bread).

The Carrot Bread I made is in the chapter called Flavored Breads, and I was intrigued by its use of raw shredded carrots. Other recipe variations included are: spinach bread, beet bread, chili bread, onion and caraway bread, and herb bread (which didn't include the carrots). First I made the plain carrot dough, shaping half into a round loaf and the rest into rolls. The second time around I dove into the herb garden first, emerging with fist fulls of fresh parsley, rosemary, and thyme, which I (hesitantly) tossed into the mix. I also substituted 1 cup of whole-wheat white flour for 1 cup of the bread flour.

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The result? Flavorful, healthy, autumn-colored rolls that I think would be a welcome and interesting addition to any holiday table. They have a soft but substantial crumb and a chewy crust that crisps up nicely when reheated. They also freeze beautifully. As always, I urge you to use local and organic ingredients whenever possible. At around a dollar a pound, organic carrots are one of the world's best bargains.

Susan's Carrot & Herb Rolls
Adapted from Bread by Eric Treuille & Ursula Ferrigno
Makes 16 3-inch rolls

Ingredient US volume Metric Volume US weight Metric weight
whole-wheat white flour 1 c 235 ml 4-3/8 oz 125 g
bread flour 3 c 700 ml 15 3/8 oz 437 g
instant yeast 2 tsp 10 ml -- --
warm water 1 1/2 c 350 ml 12 oz 335 g
butter melted 2 tbsp 30 ml 1 oz 28 g
carrots finely shredded 2 1/4 c 530 ml 13 7/8 oz 380 g
parsley chopped 1/4 c 60 ml 3/8 oz 10g
fresh rosemary chopped 2 tbsp 30 ml -- --
fresh thyme chopped 1 tbsp 15 ml -- --
salt 2 1/2 tsp 12 ml -- --

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Mix the whole-wheat white flour, bread flour, and yeast in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the water and melted butter. Stir until combined. Mix in the carrots, parsley, rosemary, and thyme and stir until a soft sticky dough forms.

Turn dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead 5 minutes, sprinkling on a little more bread flour if necessary to keep dough from sticking to your hands and the work surface.

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Cover dough with bowl and let rest 20 minutes (this is the autolyse).

Sprinkle the salt over the dough and knead for 5 minutes, until salt is fully incorporated and the dough is smooth and still slightly sticky, adding more flour if necessary.

Put the dough in a clear, straight-sided plastic container with a snap-on lid and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Punch down, then let rest for 10 minutes.

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Divide the dough into 16 pieces, about 3 ounces (84 grams) each. Shape into balls and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle rolls lightly with flour and cover with a tea towel. Proof until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.

About 20 minutes before baking, heat oven to 400F/205C.

If desired, brush rolls with salt water. Bake in preheated oven until the tops are golden brown and the bottoms sound hollow when tapped, about 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Store in an airtight container or freeze. If desired, reheat at 350F/175C for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

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Sunday, October 07, 2007

Susan: Whole Grain Cottage Cheese Bread


The best way to master a skill, be it bread baking or brick laying, is to study under someone who has more experience than you do. Over the years I've found that the most helpful information these people can divulge usually falls under two categories: useful and unbelievable. Useful, as in, "How great! I never would have thought of that." And unbelievable, as in, "I can't believe anybody would be so stupid as to actually do that."

While I do have my useful moments, the majority of my experiences fall under the unbelievable category. And besides being stupid, I also tend to be quite stubborn. Stick around. You can learn a lot from me and my mistakes.

Take, for instance, this priceless piece of knowledge that I picked up while working on this month's bread recipe:

If you're in the middle of creating a totally new whole grain bread for a rapidly approaching deadline because at the last minute you suddenly decided that writing about the tried and true, previously posted recipe you'd planned to write about felt a little like cheating, don't decide after the loaves have already proofed in the pans for 45 minutes that you really need to dash to the post office to mail something out, especially if it only took an hour for the dough to double in size while fermenting, the post office is 10 miles away, and you know it can take 10 minutes just to get from the farmyard to the blacktop at the top of the driveway.

You see? Even when I read that paragraph I immediately think, "I can't believe anybody would actually do that." And yet for some idiotic reason I did.

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But wait. There's more. Too stubborn to admit that there was anything wrong with my recipe except for the fact that I let the loaves proof so long that they only rose about three millimeters once in the oven, the next day (this would be the day the completed recipe and accompanying article were officially due) I proceeded to make up another batch of the exact same dough, despite the fact that I was pretty sure it called for too much cottage cheese, and may have had a few other problems.

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This time I stayed home and closely monitored the proofing process, but the same thing happened. Despite doubling in size in less than an hour during the fermentation, the loaves hadn't risen much above the tops of the pans after proofing for an hour, and then they hardly rose in the oven. In a way this was a good thing, because by not messing with any of the ingredients I learned that the recipe itself is somehow to blame for the disappointing results.

The other good thing is that this bread, despite being on the short side, has, as my farmguy, Joe, put it, "a hell of a nice flavor." He also pointed out that it isn't really that short; I just tend to make very big sandwich bread.

This bread is dense but not brick like, and although it does contain white flour, as far as sandwich breads go it's really quite good for you. It's made with oat bran and wheat bran as well as whole-wheat flour, and the cottage cheese and milk add protein and calcium. The interior crumb is pleasantly moist with a nutty chewiness, and the cottage cheese gives it a very subtle tang. It makes hearty toast, and I shaped an extra hunk of dough into some fantastic burger buns. I think it would also make tasty dinner rolls.

But since I'm still not entirely happy with the recipe, what I'm going to give you here is the original recipe it's adapted from, which I created a year ago while looking for something to do with an outdated carton of cottage cheese. Although I didn't have a chance to bake it again this week, I know this recipe works because I have photographic evidence of the taller, beautiful loaves it produced (that's it in the top photo). And I even took detailed notes while making it.

I've included the new version in the sisdebar in case you desire a slightly shorter, somewhat denser, and definitely healthier loaf.

If, however, you don't completely trust either version of this bread (or me), I can safely recommend my Oatmeal Toasting Bread, which the three of us had originally decided I should write about this month. It's one of my favorite sandwich loaves, and I, along with many other people (including Beth), have successfully made it numerous times. Just don't ask me to divulge any of the unbelievable things I did during the several years I spent tweaking the recipe. There's only so much humiliation a girl can take at one time, no matter how much she wants to help others become better bakers by avoiding her mistakes.

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Susan's Whole Grain Cottage Cheese Bread
Makes 2 loaves, approximately 1 1/2 pounds/680 grams each (56 ounces/1.6kg of unbaked dough). You can also use this dough to make rolls, buns, or freeform loaves like the 12 ounce/340 gram (round pictured above.

Ingredients US volume | Metric Volume | US weight | Metric weight
all-purpose flour 2 1/2 cups | 625 ml | 12 1/2 oz | 354 g
old-fashioned oats 1/2 cup | 125 ml | 3 3/8 oz | 53 g
oat bran 1/4 cup | 60 ml | 1 1/8 oz | 32 g
wheat bran 1/4 cup | 60 ml | 3/8 oz | 11 g
instant yeast 1 Tablespoon | 15 ml | 10 g
granulated sugar 1 Tablespoon | 15 ml | 13 g
canola oil 1 Tablespoons | 15 ml | 16 g
milk (or water) warm 2 cups | 500 ml | 16 oz | 454 g
cottage cheese 1 cup | 250 ml | 8 oz | 227 g
whole-wheat flour 2 1/2 cups | 625 ml | 13 5/8 oz | 387 g
salt 2 1/2 teaspoons | 12 ml | -- | 12 g

Mixing and fermentation
In a very large bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour, oats, oat bran, wheat bran, yeast, and sugar (I use a wooden spoon). Make a small well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour in the canola oil and then the milk and cottage cheese. Mix well, then continue to stir vigorously, slowly adding 1/2 cup of the whole wheat flour at a time, until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough.

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead for about 7 or 8 minutes, adding a sprinkling of all-purpose flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to your hands or the work surface. Depending on your flour, your weather, and about 45 other variants, you might not need to add any more flour.

Place the mixing bowl over the dough, and let it rest for 20 minutes. This rest period is called the autolyse.

Remove the bowl, flatten out the dough with your hands, and sprinkle about half of the salt over it. Begin kneading the salt into the dough. After a few turns, sprinkle on the rest of the salt and continue to knead for 7 to 8 minutes, adding a small amount of flour if necessary, until the salt is completely incorporated and the dough is soft and smooth.

Susan's Whole Grain Cottage Bread: The Extra Version
This version came about because I have a More More More tendency when it comes to cooking and food. I wanted to cut the original recipe in half because it made 7 pounds of dough and I thought that might scare some people away, but it seemed silly to only use half a carton of cottage cheese. One half cup of cottage cheese per 28-ounce loaf hardly seemed worth the bother. I decided that extra cottage cheese, along with extra oat bran, oats, and wheat bran would make a better, not to mention healthier, bread.

Follow the recipe above, making these changes and decreasing the rising times as needed. You'll end up with about 69 ounces of dough.

1. Substitute bread flour for the all-purpose flour.
2. Double the amount of oats, oat bran, and wheat bran.
3. Double the amount of cottage cheese.

I've come up with some ideas about why this version isn't rising in the oven, but I haven't had a chance to test my theories. Since A Year In Bread is a learning experience, I thought I'd go ahead and mention them.

I do know that the extra cottage cheese doesn't make the dough too heavy to rise, because during the first rise (fermentation) it easily doubled in size both times I made it. But doubling in size took much less time than the original version (the dough was the same temperature), so it's possible the extra milk sugar may be causing the dough to rise more quickly at first, and that the yeast is already exhausted by the time the loaves are finally placed in the oven. But I don't notice any change in rising times when I make Farmhouse White and substitute 4 cups of milk for the 4 cups of water, so I'm thinking that's not it.

I also used bread flour instead of all-purpose flour, assuming the extra gluten in the bread flour would help offset the lack of gluten in the extra oats, oat bran, and wheat bran. It shouldn't have, but maybe that substitution did something? The increased amounts of bran and oats shouldn't have made the dough too heavy; I bake other similar breads with more that this in them, and they come out fine.

I've seen whole wheat bread recipes that call for just one rise; after kneading the dough you shape it straight into loaves. This would assure a nice height to the loaves, but without that second rise the resulting flavor, crumb, and texture aren't as nice. It would be interesting to try it, though.

Keeping both rises but letting the dough only increase in size by half or two-thirds during fermentation would be another option.

A shorter proofing period is another possiblity. I was afraid to put the loaves in the oven when they were barely up to the edge of the pans, assuming there wouldn't be any huge bloom when I put them in the oven, but if the yeast had some extra energy left they might really poof up.

This is what I love and hate about baking bread. The possibilities are endless!

While I love my antique wooden dough bowls and still use them for mixing doughs, I've started letting my doughs ferment in clear, straight-sided plastic containers with snap-on lids. Besides not having to cover the dough with damp tea towels or plastic wrap to keep the tops from drying out, the containers make it easy to tell when the dough has doubled in size; simply mark the height of the unrisen dough on the side of the container with a felt tip pen (it comes off when scrubbed with a sponge). For home baking, the containers don't need to be very big, and you can find inexpensive ones for sale almost anywhere.

Set your container of dough somewhere that is preferably between 70F and 75F (21 - 24C) until it has barely doubled in size, 60 to 90 minutes. You should be able to push a floured finger deep into it and leave an indentation that doesn't spring back.

Ideally, the dough should also be between 70F and 78F (21 - 26C). It's easy to check the temperature of your dough and ingredients with an inexpensive instant read thermometer.

Shaping and final rise (proof)
Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, flattening gently with your hands to break up any large air bubbles. Divide the dough into two equal pieces. I flatten the dough into a large rectangle, use my bench scraper to cut up the dough, and then check the weights on my kitchen scale.

Shape the dough into loaves and place them seam side down in well-greased loaf pans. If desired, before you place the dough in the pans, brush them with water and roll the tops in oats; or you can put them in the pans, brush them with water, and sprinkle them with oats, but this doesn't work as well. There are dozens of ways to shape loaves; see this post for the method I use.

I use 8-inch x 4-inch pans; 9-inch x 5-inch pans will give you wider, shorter loaves. I can't say enough good things about these commercial loaf pans from Chicago Metallic. For the price of a few loaves of bread, they're definitely worth the investment. They also work great for baking beer bread. Note that what they call a 9-inch x 5-inch 1-pound loaf pan is what I call an 8-inch x 4-inch pan. The actual size of the pan is inbetween the two. Chicago Metallic also makes what they call a 1-1/2 pound loaf pan. I'll be using these same pans in our wholesale bread bakery once we have it up and running, only they'll be the 'strap version,' where four pans are strapped together so you can move them in and out of the oven at once.

I usually grease my pans with canola oil using a silicone pastry brush, but lately I've been using Trader Joe's Canola Baking Spray, which is, according to the label, "a unique formula developed for the exacting needs of home bakers. This superior coating provides an even, consistent coating of canola oil and flour for all baking pans." I figured for 99 cents I'd give it a try, and I love it. Unfortunately I've run out, and they've been out of stock for months.

Heat the oven to 375F (190C).

Cover the loaves with a damp tea towel and let them rise for about 45 to 60 minutes, or until the dough slowly springs back a little when you lightly poke it with a floured finger.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the loaves are golden brown and the bottoms sound hollow if tapped. Reduce baking time for smaller loaves, rolls, and burger buns. Remove immediately from pans and let cool on a wire rack. Try to wait at least 40 minutes before cutting into a loaf. Store at room temperature or freeze in zipper freezer bags. Make sure loaves are completely cooled before sealing in bags.

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Thursday, August 23, 2007

Susan: Quick Breads -- Beer Bread


When it comes to minimum input and maximum output in the kitchen, beer bread is about as good as it gets. Five minutes of work reward you with a heavenly aroma wafting through the house and a warm, crusty loaf in under an hour. I once made beer bread for a cooking class called Cozy Breads & Soups, and even after watching me make it, several people could still hardly believe how easy it was to put together — and how good it tasted.

I'm not sure where most people taste beer bread for the first time, but I do know that there are plenty of folks looking to make their own. I wrote about beer bread on Farmgirl Fare back in November of 2005, and to this day that article gets more search hits than any other post on my blog.

Beer bread is delicious warm or at room temperature and goes well with just about anything. You can even use it to make sandwiches. A thick slice of leftover beer bread popped in the toaster and slathered with butter is a wonderful thing. It also freezes beautifully. (If you don't intend to serve your beer bread right away, keep in mind that the flavor of any herbs you add may intensify over time.)

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There are endless flavor variations of beer bread possible; simply add whatever you desire to the basic dry mix. It's fun to experiment with different beers and ales, too. A darker beer will give you a deeper flavor. You can even make it with non-alcoholic beer. Since we've been brewing our own Irish pale ale for years, I never buy beer anymore, but fellow food blogger Nic at Baking Bites recently made an apricot beer bread using an apricot ale that I think just might get me to make an exception.

There are so few ingredients in beer bread that it's difficult to believe anyone would have the nerve to sell Beer Bread Mix. And yet I've seen packages of it selling for upwards of eight dollars. A batch of your own signature homemade beer bread mix makes a great gift. Just tuck a zipper bag of the dry mix into a colorful tin (or even a brown paper bag tied with a festive ribbon) and voila! — a charming, scrumptious gift suitable for practically any occasion. Include baking instructions written or printed out on a simple card. If the recipient is a dear friend, you might even consider sharing the recipe for the mix.

I've made all sorts of beer breads in the past, including a whole wheat version, but I wanted to try something different for A Year In Bread. My creativity was sparked when a Farmgirl Fare reader e-mailed me a few weeks ago saying their first batch of beer bread was in the oven and that they had a few questions, including whether I'd ever made beer bread with rye flour. I hadn't, but that got me thinking about the sourdough onion rye bread I make — all too infrequently for some people.

I decided I would cook some chopped onion and caraway seeds in olive oil as I do for the sourdough onion rye, and then substitute some rye flour for the all-purpose flour. It wasn't until I had the loaf in the oven and was halfway done cleaning up the kitchen that I realized I'd forgotten to actually add any rye flour to the batter.

The nice thing about screwing up beer bread is that it doesn't take long to whip up another batch. The un-rye loaf actually turned out quite tasty, and it was definitely the better looking of the two. It didn't really taste like it was missing a main ingredient until I bit into a slice from the second loaf and said, "Ah ha. Now that tastes like rye bread!" They aren't quite as good as a crusty loaf of my sourdough onion rye, but they didn't take hours and hours to make either.

Today for lunch I toasted up a slice of the rye version in the toaster oven and then topped it with a slather of cream cheese, a layer of thinly sliced homegrown lamb salami, and juicy slices of heirloom tomatoes from the garden. Tomorrow Joe is planning to top a couple of the un-rye slices with Swiss cheese and tomatoes and heat them in the toaster oven. Tonight we're having grilled burgers, and I'm thinking toasted slices of onion rye beer bread would probably make a very good stand-in for a bun.

These new beer breads have serious possibilities.

Susan's Beyond Easy Beer Bread
Makes one loaf

The optional egg glaze gives the top a beautiful, dark golden color. As always, I encourage you to use locally produced and organically grown ingredients whenever possible.
Basic Beer Bread Mix:
Ingredient | US volume | Metric volume | US weight | Metric weight
all-purpose flour 3 cups | 750 ml | 15 1/8 oz | 430 g
granulated sugar 1 tbsp | 15 ml | 5/8 oz | 16 g
salt 1 tsp | 5 ml | 1/4 oz | 6 g
baking powder 1 tbsp | 15 ml | 5/8 oz | 16 g

beer 1 1/2 cups | 355 ml | 12 oz | 338 g
Optional glaze 1 egg & 2 tsp (10 ml) water, beaten

Heat oven to 375F/190C degrees. Combine flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder in a large mixing bowl. Slowly stir in beer and mix just until combined. Batter will be thick. Spread in a greased 8-inch (20cm) loaf pan, brush with egg glaze if desired, and bake until golden brown and a toothpick stuck in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

Cool in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes. Remove from pan and cool 10 more minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Will keep for 1 to 2 days stored in a plastic bag or airtight container. May be frozen.

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Flavor Variations:
Onion Rye or Un-Rye: Heat 2 Tablespoons olive oil in a medium skillet. Add 1 cup finely chopped onion and 1 Tablespoon caraway seeds. Cook at medium heat, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent and beginning to brown, about 5 to 8 minutes. (This step may be done ahead of time; let onion mixture sit at room temperature up to two hours or refrigerate.)

If desired, replace the 3 cups of all-purpose flour with 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 cup rye flour and 1/2 cup whole wheat flour. Stir onion mixture into batter along with 2 more Tablespoons of beer or water.

Cheddar & Dill: Add 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill and finely grated sharp cheddar cheese to the basic mix.

Garlic & Herb: Add 1 teaspoon dried rosemary, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, and 2 minced garlic cloves (or 1 teaspoon garlic flakes) to the basic mix. For fresh herbs, use 1 chopped Tablespoon of each.

Dill & Chive: Add 2 Tablespoons fresh dill (or 2 teaspoons dried dill) and 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives to the basic mix.

Italian: Add 1 teaspoon each dried basil and oregano (or 1 Tablespoon each chopped fresh basil and oregano), 2 minced cloves of garlic, and 1/2 cup finely grated parmesan or romano cheese to the basic mix.

Other Additions: Any dried or fresh herbs; 1/2 cup freshly grated asiago (or other hard cheese); 1/2 cup chopped scallions; 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley, 1/2 cup oats in place of 1/2 cup of the all-purpose flour; or practically anything else you can think of — use your imagination.

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Thursday, July 12, 2007

Susan: Italian Breads From Local Breads - Black Olive Cheeks (Puccia)


If your bakery cafe has 500 locations scattered around the country, launching any new product is a complicated endeavor. First there's the research and development stage, which in many cases can last as long as a year. Creating something that is not only tasty, visually appealing, and on budget, but that can also be easily and exactly replicated around the country — or even the world — is no small feat. Then there are the amazingly expensive, in-store and out-of-store publicity/marketing/advertising campaigns needed to spread the word about your delicious new invention.

If, however, your bakery cafe has only one location, one oven, and one baker, introducing a new item is as easy as flipping through a cookbook, pointing to a recipe and saying, "That looks good!"; baking it up; and sticking the results in your display case next to a handwritten sign stating what it is. Years ago when I had a little bakery cafe in northern California, that's exactly what I used to do.

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One of the nicest things about opening a small eatery several miles from any other place folks could buy a cup of coffee or, even better, a still warm chocolate chip cookie and a latté made from freshly roasted coffee beans, is that you quickly develop a band of very loyal customers. And although some of them happily ordered the same thing day in and day out, I was fortunate to have a share of eager guinea pigs. These adventurous folks were always willing to try something new and different, no matter what it might be. Some of my experiments, such as the pistachio olive quick bread, never made it onto the permanent menu (or even into the oven a second time), others, like the pesto piezones, were instant bestsellers. This ongoing creative challenge was one of the most enjoyable parts of the job.

Shaping Rolls

I once knew a guy who had worked as a cook in a restaurant famous for its five different types of homemade rolls. I said something about what a pain it must have been to shape all those little pieces of dough, and he said it wasn't hard at all. "I'd just tear off pieces and throw them in the pan," he said, using hand gestures and sound effects to demonstrate his technical prowess. "I could make about 60 rolls a minute."

The nice thing about homemade rolls is that they, obviously, don't have to each be perfectly formed. I'm not a real stickler for perfection, but I do like my rolls to look nice, so my method takes a little more time than one second per roll. If I want to be sure they're all the same size, I simply plunk a few down on my digital kitchen scale to gauge how I'm doing.

There are many ways to shape rolls. Basically whatever works best for you is the best way to do it. I use the same technique as I do for making large rounds. I hold up the hunk of dough and pull pieces of it underneath the ball, pinching them so that a taut "skin" is formed. Then I set it down on the counter, cup both hands around it, and turn it in a few tight circles while lightly pressing it into the counter so the ball is pulled into shape.

Since describing things in three-dimension is clearly not one of my strong points (can anyone actually follow what I just described?), here's the method for making rolls in Local Breads:

The technique for shaping small round rolls is similar to the technique for shaping a larger round. Place a small piece of dough on an unfloured work surface. cup one hand slightly and cover the dough ball with it. Rotate your hand in small circles, applying a little pressure to the dough. As you rotate, the dough will eventually form into a ball.

Rustic rolls may also be formed simply by flattening a larger piece of dough to a 2-inch thickness. Use a bench scraper or chef's knife to cut 2-inch-wide strips. Cut each strip into squares or rectangles.

I haven't been trying many new bread recipes lately, because I've been focusing on refining the five or six breads that will be the mainstay of the small wholesale bread bakery we're building here on the farm. But the other day I had an enlightening realization. When it comes to offering additional items for sale, things won't be much different than they were at the cafe. Testing out a new type of bread will simply be a matter of finding a recipe that sounds interesting, baking a few dozen loaves, loading them into the delivery truck, and seeing if our wholesale customers want to offer them to their customers. If the response is positive, we bake more. If not, there's no big loss.

That was all the excuse I needed to start baking new breads. Add with the publication of my new favorite bread book, Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers, by Daniel Leader (renowned baker and author of my previously favorite bread book, Bread Alone), and my priorities around the farm have suddenly shifted. Weed-filled garden, piles of dirty laundry, ravenous baby chicks, and scorching summer heat be damned — I'm on a bread baking roll.

We're devoting this month at A Year in Bread to Daniel's latest book. Because we haven't tackled sourdoughs here yet, we decided we would each bake a bread from the Italian section as they most often begin with a biga, which can be made in several hours, as opposed to sourdough starters which take several days to create from scratch. After you mix up the biga and let it sit for an hour at room temperature, it goes into the fridge for at least eight and up to 16 hours, so it's not hard to make this recipe fit your schedule.

This is the second recipe I've tried from Local Breads, and both of them were easy to make and are definite keepers, the first article was on "Parisian Daily Bread". The book, which I highly recommend for bread bakers of all levels including total beginners, will be available in stores on August 13th. You can pre-order copies now at Amazon.com for $23.10, which is 34 percent off the cover price of $35.00, plus there's no tax and free shipping on orders of $25 or more.

We're also going to be holding a contest here at A Year In Bread and giving away two signed copies of Local Breads to lucky and skilled bakers! More details will be posted soon.

I have to admit the cute name of these tasty little rolls is what first caught my attention. With the discovery that they're made with those strong and salty oil-cured olives I love so much and Daniel's introduction, I was hooked. He says:
Plump with olives, smooth and round, these rolls look just like puccia, little cheeks. I first saw them in Lucca, a walled city in Tuscany famous for its superior olive oil. I arrived by train, and when I left the station in search of food, these rolls beckoned from the only bakery I found open during the midday lull. They were the perfect snack for a hungry traveler, moist and tender with the delectable crunch of cornmeal on the bottom crust. Dark, oil-cured olives give these rolls richness and great flavor. . . Serve the puccia as an antipasto, with some pecorino cheese and a glass of Chianti.
I also almost never eat crusty breads plain or without reheating them, but I found myself nibbling on these straight from the bag on the counter. They're delicious reheated and slathered with butter, too, and make scrumptious mini sharp cheddar & homegrown lamb salami sandwiches. When I tasted the first one still warm from the oven, my immediate thought was that it would be wonderful with a glass of red wine. Yep.

As with nearly all breads, these rolls freeze beautifully. I pulled out a couple this morning, and for lunch I sliced them in half, toasted them in my beloved toaster oven, and covered them with cream cheese and slices of juicy garden tomatoes. Oh. My. God. If you can keep from gobbling them all up plain, black olive cheeks have all kinds of possibilities. Next time I'm going to make a few larger ones for lamb burger buns.

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Black Olive Cheeks (Puccia)
This is the original recipe from Local Breads in its entirety, with my baking notes [in brackets.]

Allow 9 to 16 hours to mix and ferment the biga;
10 to 15 minutes to knead;
1-1/2 to 2 hours to ferment;
45 minutes to 1 hour to proof;
20 to 25 minutes to bake

Makes 20 rolls (2.1 ounces/60 grams each)

Equipment
2 baking sheets
bench scraper or chef's knife

Biga
Ingredients | US volume | metric volume | US weight | metric weight
water tepid (70 - 78F/21-26C) 1/3 c | 80 ml | 2.3 oz | 65 g
instant yeast 1/2 tsp | 2.5 ml | .1 oz | 2 g
unbleached bread flour* 2/3 c | 160 ml | 3.5 oz | 100 g

*[I used Heartland Mill organic, unbleached, strong bread flour that I order in 50-pound bags from my local natural foods store.]

Prepare the biga
Nine to 17 hours before you want to bake, prepare the biga. Pour the water into a small mixing bowl. With a rubber spatula, stir in the yeast and flour just until a dough forms. It will be stiff like pie dough. Dust the counter with flour and scrape out the dough. Knead the dough for 1 to 2 minutes just to work in all the flour and get it fairly but not perfectly smooth. (This is a very small amount of dough, about the size of a plum.) [Mine was more like the size of a peach.] Lightly oil the mixing bowl. [I used Trader Joe's baking spray, which is what I've been using lately to oil my baking pans. It's made with canola oil and flour and works really well.] Round the biga and place it back in the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Leave at room temperature (70 - 75F/21 - 24C) for 1 hour, then refrigerate it for at least 8 and up to 16 hours. The biga will double in volume (to about the size of an orange) [mine was bigger], becoming glossy and porous, and will smell mildly acidic.

Bread dough
Ingredients | US volume | metric volume | US weight | metric weight
biga About 1 cup | 237 ml | 5.9 oz | 167 g
water tepid (70 - 78F/21 - 26C) 1 1/2 c | 356 ml | 13.2 oz | 375 g
instant yeast 1 tsp | 5 ml | .2 oz | 5 g
flour* 3 1/4 c | 770 ml | 17.6 oz | 500 g
sea salt 1 1/2 tsp | 7 ml | .4 oz | 10 g
oil-cured olives pitted & coarsely chopped 1 1/2 c | 356 ml | 5.3 oz | 150 g
coarse cornmeal for dusting

Mix the dough
Remove the biga from the refrigerator and uncover it. It will be soft, airy, and a bit sticky. Scrape into a large bowl. Pour the water over the biga and stir it with a rubber spatula to soften it and break it into clumps. [I used my hands.] Stir in the yeast, flour, and salt until a dough forms. [I used the US volume measurements, but because I'd ended up using quite a bit of extra flour making the Parisian Daily Baguettes, I measured out my flour in cups and then weighed it on my digital kitchen scale. Turns out my 3-1/4 cups of flour only weighed 456 grams. That extra 44 grams to reach the designated 500 grams was nearly a half cup, which I did end up adding while kneading. Click here to read Beth's recent article, "Weights & Measures", which discusses this very subject.]

Knead the dough
By hand: Lightly flour the counter and scrape the dough out onto it. Knead the dough until it is soft and almost smooth, about 10 minutes.

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With floured hands, press the dough into a very rough rectangle and spread the olives over it. They will seem overabundant. Roll up the dough to contain as many of the olives as possible and continue kneading until the olives are evenly distributed and the dough is smooth and elastic, 3 to 5 minutes more. If olives pop out as you knead, push them back into the dough. They will tint the dough a grayish color.

By machine: [I haven't tried this.] With the dough hook, mix the dough on medium speed (4 on a KitchenAid mixer until it is fairly smooth, about 8 minutes. Stop the machine, scrape down the hook, and add the olives. Knead the dough on medium-low speed (3 on a Kitchen Aid mixer) until they are well distributed and the dough is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Or knead them in by hand as directed above. They will tint the dough a grayish color.

Ferment the dough
Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled, clear 2-quart container with a lid. [I used an inexpensive plastic freezer container that I sprayed with Trader Joe's baking spray.] With masking tape, mark the container at the level the dough will reach when it has doubled in volume. [I used a Sharpie permanent black marker, which washes off with dishsoap and a scrubbie sponge.] Cover and leave it to rise at room temperature (70 to 75 degrees F) until it doubles in volume, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. When you press your finger into the dough, the fingerprint should spring back slowly. [My kitchen was 83 degrees, so I put the container of dough in a cooler with an ice pack during fermentation. I should have checked it sooner; after 1-1/2 hours the dough had already more than doubled in size.]

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Divide and shape the rolls
Sprinkle a light coating of cornmeal over the surface of the baking sheets. [I lined my baking sheets with unbleached parchment paper first. I didn't have coarse cornmeal, but the regular stuff worked fine.] Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop and pat into a rough rectangle. With a bench scraper or chef's knife, cut the dough into 20 equal pieces (2.1 ounces/60 grams each). [I cut the dough into pieces and then weighed them on my digital kitchen scale, adding or subtracting bits of dough to make them all about 60 grams each.] Shape each piece into a ball. Place them smooth side up on the baking sheets, about 1-1/2 inches (4 cm) apart. Sift a veil of flour over the tops of the rolls and drape them with plastic wrap. [I was too lazy to pull out the sifter so I sprinkled the flour with my fingers, then covered the rolls with a damp tea towel instead of plastic wrap.]

Proof the rolls
Let the rolls rise at room temperature (70 - 75F/21 - 24C) until they expand to the size of a mandarin orange, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Press your fingertip into the dough and your fingerprint will spring back slowly. [The baking sheets wouldn't fit in my cooler, so I just let them proof in the 83F/28C kitchen for 45 minutes. I'm not sure how big a mandarin orange is, and this may have been a bit too long as the dough barely sprang back, and the rolls didn't rise very much in the oven. They looked and tasted great, though.]

Prepare the oven
About 15 minutes before baking, place one rack in the top third of the oven and another in the middle position. Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake the rolls
Uncover the baking sheets and slide them onto the oven racks. Bake until the rolls are honey-colored, 20 to 25 minutes. [I baked mine about 5 minutes longer.] Halfway through baking, switch the sheets so the rolls bake evenly. [I'm usually paranoid about baking two racks of anything at once, but I wanted to follow this recipe exactly, so I tried it. Surprise! It worked great.]

Cool and store the rolls
Remove the baking sheets to a wire rack. Cool the rolls briefly, about 5 minutes, and enjoy them slightly warm. [Finally a bread that doesn't have to cool for 40 minutes before you can taste it!] The oil from the olives will help to keep them moist. Sstore uneaten rolls in a resealable plastic bag at room temperature for 1 to days. [Or freeze.]

Recipe reprinted from Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers by Daniel Leader (c) Copyright 2007 by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. With permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.

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Friday, June 29, 2007

Susan: Summer Breads - Parisian Daily Bread (A Four Hour Baguette)



Many of you know how much I love the book Bread Alone by Daniel Leader. I've mentioned it numerous times on my blog, Farmgirl Fare, and I've been recommending it for years to anyone who showed even the slightest interest in wanting to bake their own bread. I have a shelf full of bread books, but this is the only one that has earned a permanent place in my kitchen. My original copy is in at least four pieces.

Back in January, I received an email from a marketing coordinator at W.W.Norton, an independent and employee-owned book publisher in New York, congratulating me for winning the Best Rural Food Blog at last year's Food Blog Awards. He then went on to say:

When I read that you're working towards creating an artisan bread bakery on your farm, I thought I'd let you know about a book we're publishing this summer. It's called Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers. It's written by Daniel Leader, the founder of Bread Alone, the legendary bakery in Woodstock, NY. The book won't be available in stores for a few more months, but I'd love to send you an advance copy. Interested?
Of all the bread bakers and all the bread books. . .

We're going to devote next month at A Year in Bread to Local Breads, which will be available in stores August 13th. You can pre-order copies now at Amazon.com for $23.10, which is 34% off the cover price of $35.00. Click here for more info. We'll each be baking a different Italian bread from the book, and during the fourth week we'll have an exclusive interview with Daniel Leader. We'll also be holding a contest and giving away two signed copies of Local Breads to lucky (and skilled!) A Year in Bread readers. Stay tuned for more details.

Variation: Four-Hour Dinner Rolls (petit pain)
From Local Breads by Daniel Leader

[I haven't tried these yet but plan to.] Making rolls from Parisian Daily Bread dough couldn't be simpler, since the dough just has to be cut into equal pieces but not shaped. To make rolls instead of baguettes, follow the recipe for Parisian Daily Bread through dividing and preshaping the dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. With your palms, gently press it into a square about 12 inches wide and 3/4 inches thick (30 x 2 cm). Use a bench scraper or a chef's knife dipped in flour to cut the dough into 16 equal pieces (1.9 ounces/53 grams each). [A digital kitchen scale works great for portioning out dough.] Place the rolls on a parchment-covered peel or rimless baking sheet, about 2 inches apart. Lightly dust them with flour and lightly drape them with plastic wrap until they have spread by about 20 percent, 30 to 40 minutes. Bake until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes, and serve immediately. Cool leftover rolls and freeze in resealable plastic bags for up to 1 month.

In the meantime, though, I needed a summer/picnic bread for this month. I'd been e-mailing back and forth with Daniel about Local Breads, so I figured I'd ask him for a recommendation from it. He immediately suggested I try the very first recipe in the book, Parisian Daily Bread, or what he called The Four Hour Baguette.

"It's simple, it's fool proof, and it's delicious," he said. And he was right.

I'll warn you now that this a lengthy recipe, but don't let that scare you away. It really is an easy bread to make, and the detailed instructions will allow even beginning bakers to produce beautiful, scrumptious loaves. The success of such a simple recipe lies in all the little details. This is the original recipe in its entirety, with my baking notes [in brackets.]

From first step to first bite really is under four hours. The recipe makes three 10-ounce baguettes that are the perfect size for slicing into rounds for appetizer-size crostini or bruschetta. Or you can cut one in half lengthwise and make a beautiful sandwich for two. This bread has a pleasantly chewy crust that becomes nice and crisp if reheated. It freezes beautifully and is the perfect kind of bread to have on hand since it's so versatile.

Parisian Daily Bread (Baguette Normal)
From Daniel Leader's Local Breads

Allow 20 minutes to mix and rest;
8 to 12 minutes to knead;
1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours to ferment;
30 to 40 minutes to proof;
15 to 20 minutes to bake

A version of this straight dough baguette is produced by bakers all over Paris. The first batch goes out when the bakery opens in the morning at around seven o'clock, and a fresh batch is set out every 4 hours after that until closing time, at 8 p.m.

Makes 3 slender loaves about 14 inches/36 cm long [I made mine a little shorter to be sure they would fit on my baking stone] and 10 ounces/285 grams each

Equipment
cast-iron skillet
bench scraper or chef's knife
baker's peel or rimless baking sheet
parchment paper
2 kitchen towels
lame, single-edged razor blade, or serrated knife

Ingredients | US volume | metric volume | US weight | metric weight
water - tepid (70 - 78F/21 - 26C) 1 1/2 c | 355 ml | 12 oz | 340 g
instant yeast 1 tsp | 5 ml | .2 oz | 5 g
flour* 3 1/4 c | 770 ml | 17.6 oz | 500 g
sea salt 1 1/2 tsp | 7 ml | .4 oz | 10 g

*Type 55-style flour from King Arthur or Giusto's or unbleached all-purpose flour [I used Heartland Mill organic, unbleached, all-purpose flour that I order in 50-pound bags from my local natural foods store]

Mix the dough
Pour the water into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. [I used the US volume measurements.] Add the yeast, flour, and salt and stir with a rubber spatula just until all the water is absorbed and a dry, clumpy dough forms. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap [I used a damp tea towel] and let it stand for 20 minutes, to allow the flour to hydrate and the gluten to develop on its own.

Shaping A Baguette
From Local Breads by Daniel Leader

Breads across Europe are shaped into logs of varying lengths. The technique for creating the basic shape is the same, no matter the length or thickness of the bread. The classic French baguette is a particularly long log, distinguished by its elegant scoring and tapered ends. Classic French baguettes are 28 inches (70 cm), but the baguette recipes in Local Breads have been adapted so that the breads measure 14 inches (35 cm), to fit home ovens and baking stones.

1. On a lightly floured countertop, pat the dough into a rough rectangle measuring about 3 by 5 inches (8 x 12 cm).

2. With the longer side facing you, fold the top of the dough down about one third of the way toward the center. With the heel of your hand, press along the seam, using firm but gentle pressure. Fold the bottom of the dough about one third of the way toward the center and seal the seam firmly.

3. Fold this skinny rectangle in half by bringing the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Working from right to left, cup your hand over the log of dough and press the heel of your hand down firmly to seal the seam. Dust the counter with additional flour to prevent the dough from sticking.

4. To stretch the log, place your hands together, palms down, over the middle of the log. Using light, even pressure, roll the log back and forth as you spread your hands apart. Repeat three or four times, until the log is the desired length. Leave the ends rounded or taper them by applying gentle pressure to them as you roll. Avoid over-handling the loaves, which will burst their air cells.

Knead the dough
By hand: Lightly dust the counter with flour. Using the spatula, empty the dough and any stray flour out of the bowl and knead it with smooth, steady strokes for 10 to 12 minutes. After about 2 minutes, the dough will collect into a ball. It will feel tacky and you'll start to see it stretch. Continue to knead, dipping your hands in flour as necessary so they don't stick to the dough. Try to avoid kneading extra flour into the dough so your baguettes will be light. Relax into the rhythm of kneading. Take a 2-minute break if you become tired. Stop when the dough loses its stickiness, firms up, and feels silky smooth and resilient. [After 11 minutes of kneading, my dough was firm and smooth but still somewhat sticky, despite having put almost 3/4 cup extra flour on my hands while kneading to keep them from sticking to the dough. It was cloudy and very humid. I also know that my flour has absorbed moisture from the humidity.]

By machine:[I haven't tried this.] Use the dough hook of a stand mixer and mix the dough on low speed (2 on a KitchenAid) for 8 to 10 minutes. It will clear the sides of the bowl, grabbing onto the dough hook, but look lumpy. Pull it off the dough hook and knead it by hand for a few strokes on an unfloured counter until it is very smooth and springy.

Ferment the dough
Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled, clear, straight-sided 2-quart container with a lid. [I used an inexpensive plastic freezer container that I sprayed with Trader Joe's Baking Spray, which is made with canola oil and flour. I also use it to grease my loaf pans.] With masking tape, mark the spot on the container that the dough will reach when it has increased 1-1/2 times in volume. [I used a Sharpie permanent black marker, which washes off with dishsoap and a scrubbie sponge.]

Cover and leave it to rise at room temperature (70 to 75 degrees) for 45 minutes. [The second time I made these baguettes, my kitchen was about 82 degrees, so I put the dough in a cooler with an ice pack where it was 72 degrees. The shaped loaves wouldn't fit in the cooler, though, so I just let them proof in the warmer kitchen.] It won't double in volume but will increase by about 25 percent. [Both times I made this, my dough was at the 1-1/2 times mark in 45 minutes.] If you slice into it, you will begin to get an idea of what your finished bread will look like, with a structure under the surface of bubbles, nooks, and crannies. [I forgot to do this.]

Give the dough a turn
Lightly dust the counter with flour and, using a spatula, empty the risen dough out of the container. Pat it gently into a rectangle about 6 by 8 inches and fold it like a business letter; with the short side facing you, lift the top edge and fold it into the center of the rectangle; lift the near edge and fold it into the center so that it overlaps the top edge by about 1 inch. Quickly slide both hands under the dough and flip it over so the folds are underneath. Slip it back into the container, pushing it down to fit. Cover the dough and let stand until it expands reaching halfway to the masking tape mark, 45 minutes to 1 hour. [Both times I made this, after 45 minutes my dough had doubled in volume from the original amount.]

Prepare the oven
About 1 hour before baking, place a baking stone on the middle rack of the oven and a cast-iron skillet on the lower rack. Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Divide and pre-shape the dough
Lightly dust the counter with flour. Uncover the dough and turn it out onto the counter. With a bench scraper or chef's knife, cut the dough into 3 equal pieces (10 ounces/285 grams) each. Gently pat each piece into a rough rectangle and fold it in half. Sprinkle the pieces of dough with flour and lightly drape them with plastic wrap. [I used a damp tea towel.] Let them relax on the counter for 10 minutes.

Click to enlargeClick to enlarge

Shape the baguettes
Cover a baker's peel or rimless baking sheet with parchment paper. [I like to use unbleached parchment.] Shape each piece of dough into a baguette about 14 inches long and 2-1/2 inches wide (see sidebar for shaping instructions). [I made my baguettes about 13 inches long and patted them gently with my hands after forming to make them 2-1/2 inches wide.] Leave the ends rounded. Avoid over-handling the loaves, which will burst their air cells.

Click to enlargeClick to enlarge

Form the couche [This is such a brilliant idea!]
Lightly dust the parchment on the peel or rimless baking sheet with flour and place the baguettes on the parchment, seam sides down, about 2 inches apart. Lift the parchment paper between the loaves, making pleats and drawing the loaves together. Tightly roll up 2 kitchen towels and slip them under the parchment paper on the sides of the two outer loaves to support and cradle the baguettes. Lightly dust the tops of the baguettes with flour and lightly drape them with plastic wrap. [I used a damp tea towel.]

Proof the baguettes
Let the loaves stand at room temperature (70 to 75 degrees) for 30 to 40 minutes. They will increase about 1-1/2 times in size. When you press your fingertip into the dough, the indentation will spring back slowly.

Click to enlarge

Score the baguettes
Uncover the loaves, take away the towels, and stretch the parchment paper out so that it is flat and the loaves are separated on top of it. Score each baguette with a lame, a single-edged razor blade, or a very sharp serrated knife. [I always use a large serrated knife.] Starting from the tip, angle the blade 45 degrees to make 3 slashes, about 3 inches long and 1/2 inch deep. Slash quickly and confidently.

Bake the loaves
Slide the loaves, still on the parchment, onto the hot baking stone. Carefully place 1/2 cup of ice [I used about a cup] in the hot cast-iron skillet to produce steam. Bake until the baguettes are caramel-colored, 15 to 20 minutes. [I baked mine 25 minutes.]

Cool and store the loaves
Slide the peel or the rimless baking sheet under the parchment paper to remove the loaves from the oven. Slide the loaves, still on the parchment, onto a wire rack. Cool for about 5 minutes and then peel them off the parchment paper. Parisian Daily Bread is best eaten within a few hours of baking. Toast day-old baguettes and spread with butter and jam for breakfast. For longer storage, freeze in resealable plastic bags for up to 1 month.

Recipe reprinted from Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers by Daniel Leader (c) Copyright 2007 by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. With permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.

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